Planting under evergreen trees or with other fast-growing plants limits the food they can get. Result: weak plants and no flowers. Bulbs are planted in an area with poor drainage. Daffodils love water but must have good drainage. They do not do well where the water puddles. Plants infected with basal rot have green color loss on the leaves, malformed leaves, stems, and flowers — or all. Basal rot is incurable — dig and discard the bulbs.
Plant leaves were cut too soon or tied off the previous year. Daffodils replenish their bulb for about six weeks after they bloom.
The bulbs should be watered for about this long after blooming. The leaves should not be cut off or blocked from sun until they start to lose their green and turn yellow. This signifies the completion of the bulb rebuilding process.
Bulbs may be stressed from transplanting. Some varieties seem to skip a year of blooming if dug and replanted in a different environment. Too Little Sunlight Flowering bulbs need at least 6 hours of full sun each day to bloom properly. Too Much Nitrogen Just like any other flowering plant, if the soil contains a lot of nitrogen, out of balance with other soil nutrients, then the plant will put on lush green foliage and not many blooms.
Dead or Missing Bulbs Did the squirrels or chipmunks get to the bulbs you planted? Overcrowded Bulbs Poor blooms on an older clump of daffodils can indicate that the bulbs have grown crowded and need to be dug up and divided.
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Nothing proclaims the arrival of spring like the sunny trumpets of daffodils. So it is disappointing when they don't bloom. You planted them a few years ago, and their leaves are there. Why aren't they flowering? Daffodils reproduce by dividing and making new bulbs. That's why you often see a slender adolescent bulb attached to a large one when you buy them.
Save to My scrapbook. Daffodil blindness. Quick facts. Jump to What is daffodil blindness? Symptoms Control Cause. What is daffodil blindness? Symptoms The foliage of daffodils emerges each year but no flowers are produced. Control To help avoid blindness, try the following; Always prepare the site well before planting , alleviated compaction, poor drainage, and adding moderate dressings of general fertiliser Select good quality bulbs Plant bulbs at two to three times their depth If planting daffodils in turf , ensure you select cultivars suitable for naturalising such as 'Peeping Tom', 'Fortune' or 'February Gold' Flowers should be removed or pinched off deadheaded as they fade Avoid tidying up the foliage by tying the leaves into a knot; leave them to die down naturally After flowering, leave a period of at least six weeks before leaves are removed or mown In dry conditions after flowering, water thoroughly until the foliage shows signs of dying down naturally Improve dry soil by mulching around the bulbs in early spring with organic matter.
Avoid planting bulbs in very dry areas under turf or near trees. A site that is initially suitable may become less so over several years due to encroaching trees and shrubs, making it more dry and shady Where flowering rapidly declines try feeding the bulbs. As the growing points emerge in the spring apply Growmore at a rate of 70g per sq m 2oz per sq yd sprinkled evenly on the soil surface around the bulbs.
After flowering , especially for container-grown bulbs, apply a high potassium liquid feed, such as tomato food at one to two week intervals from when the blooms have faded until the first signs of yellowing of foliage If overcrowded groups of daffodils are not flowering, lift them when the foliage dies back in the summer. Improve the soil with organic matter and a little general purpose fertiliser e. Growmore at a rate of 70g per sq m 2oz per sq yd , and then re-plant the bulbs so there is a Replant small bulbs in more fertile soil e.
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