Why bias cut fabric

Next, mark a line that is 45 degrees between the straight grain and the cross grain. The easiest way to do that is to fold the paper so that the straight grain line meets the cross grain line.

That is your bias line. Now that you have marked one bias line, mark the other so you have two different bias lines to work with. If your pattern says to cut the front or back as one whole piece, ignore that. Instead, split the pieces into two halves and cut each half separately with the straight grain going in a different direction. If your pattern says to cut the front or back bodice or skirt on the fold, ignore that. Instead, cut out each half separately from a single layer of fabric and add a seam allowance, so you have a center seam going down the middle of the front and back.

Make sure you position the pattern pieces so that the straight grain goes in a different direction in each half. Because the straight grain and cross grain do not hang in the same way — the cross grain is twisted less firmly than the straight grain and it hangs longer than the straight grain, which skews the balance of the garment and will cause it to spiral around the body.

To prevent that from happening and bring the garment back into balance, you need to cut one half with the straight grain going down in one direction and the other half with the straight grain going in the other direction, as shown below:.

Use the marked bias line to position the pattern on the bias. Measure from your selvage to the marked bias line to ensure that the pattern is placed on the true bias of the fabric.

Cut the pieces out, taking care not to shift the grain line of the fabric while cutting. If you have a rotary cutter and mat, use that, as that will help prevent your fabric from shifting. In general, the key to sewing fabric cut on the bias is to control the stretch in the fabric. There are several aspects to this:. Stay stitch the edges of your cut pieces. This will prevent the fabric from stretching when you sew, which will distort the seam and lead to rippling seams. To prevent this from happening, simply stay stitch slightly to the inside of your stitching line e.

Store your cut pieces flat and try to keep handling to a minimum. While sewing, try to keep the fabric on the sewing table as much as possible, rather than dangling off the edge of the table or sewing machine. Let the feed dogs feed the fabric into the machine naturally. What is the bias-cut skirt? Cutting on the bias just refers to how the fabric is cut on the diagonal or bias — rather than parallel to the weave — to create clothing that curves, hugs and drapes more elegantly than a straight-cut piece of cloth.

In a skirt — just like our new and gorgeous Taryn — the net result is that your rear end looks a lot sexier and shapelier if that is even possible as we are all gorgeous!!! The above pic details the position of the grain lines in fabric. The warp grain runs down the length of the fabric and the weft grain runs across the width of the fabric.

The bias cut is popular for accentuating body-lines and creating more fluid curves or soft drapes. Once the warp is completed the loom then starts to weave the fabric using a shuttle with its weft threads wound on. Because there is no grain tension on the fabric — as detailed in the above image — the fabulous beauty of the bias cut is the increased elasticity and flexibility of the finished garment.

Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. What is the bias of a fabric? Why is it important to cut on the bias of fabric? What you need to know about the bias grain When cutting on the bias of a fabric, there are a few things to think about before whipping out the scissors and giving it a go: The first thing is that when using the bias grain, you will need a little more fabric than you first thought.

Make sure you compensate for this by adding a good amount to your measurements before you start. As the bias grain creates a nice stretch, sewing the hems is going to be a pain, so choose a simple pattern for your first attempt.

To help keep the stretch at the seams, you can use a zig zag stitch. Like your favourite pair of leggings, continuous stretching can cause sag — which is definitely not what you want when trying to create a flattering style! Choose your material wisely. How to cut fabric on the bias First, you will need to gather a few tools. Spread your fabric out on a clean, hard surface, with the longest side facing you.

The fabric print should be facing down.